by Jonathan Weng
Let’s go back to the 1900’s. The streets are crowded with vendors, merchants, and elegant women carrying delicate western-style umbrellas, dressed in beautiful Chinese silk skirts. The houses are designed by the best architects of the time and built with first-class wood. This was Yanshuei (鹽水), a busy harbor and the fourth most prosperous city in Taiwan during the 19th century. Once a center for both trade and civilization in Taiwan, Yanshuei now is best known for its abundant antiques and its numerous gourmet delicacies. During the Chinese New Year holidays, the air of Yanshuei is filled with a very different kind of distinctive atmosphere. This is due to the excitement of preparations for its Lantern Festival. Citizens of Yanshuei save their money every year to build great castles of firecrackers to worship the Guan Yu divinity. These castles are the highlight of the Lantern Festival, and the Yanshuei Firecrackers Ceremony lights up the night sky of the city in a unique way. History of the Yanshuei Firecrackers Ceremony Let me tell you the story behind this special ceremony. In the Guangxu Emperor’s 11th year (光緒11年), in 1885, there was a deadly plague, similar to The Black Death that occurred in medieval Europe. The plague was very severe and quickly deprived thousands of people of their lives. Doctors were helpless and could only watch their patients die. Citizens turned to the Guan Yu divinity (關聖帝君) for help, who told them to prepare some firecrackers along the streets and alleys of the town on the fifteenth day of the Chinese New Year. Citizens obeyed these instructions and amazingly found that no more deaths occured after the firecrackers were set off. The plague disappeared! People in Yanshuei have followed this tradition ever since, not only to pray for Guan Yu’s blessing but also to express their appreciation for saving so many lives. Process of the Ceremony Before Chinese New Year’s Eve, families in Yanshuei gather together and begin to build castles of firecrackers, box-like wooden structures with all kinds of beautiful fireworks. These are displayed for two days, beginning two weeks after Chinese New Year. The fireworks ceremony begins at six in the evening, and on the first day of the festival excitement and astonishment begins to impress everyone in the areas surrounding Yanshuei. The next day, the central part of the city is filled with a royal religious celebration led by the Guan Yu divinity. The whole town is crowded with tens of thousand of people. To experience the beauty and the excitement, however, don’t forget to protect yourself with a safety helmet and old blue jeans. Don’t wear your best clothes, because the firecrackers are blind and won’t know to protect your favorite outfit! Also, be sure to leave some room in your stomach, since there are many delicious snacks to enjoy, including Yanshuei Noodles (鹽水意麵), egg cakes (雞蛋糕), and red bean cakes (紅豆餅), and these are only the most famous delicacies that are worth trying here. Negative & Positive Impact The Yanshuei Firecrackers Ceremony brings happiness to the area and entertains visitors every year. The shining, colorful sky moves tourists and leaves unforgettable memories in the minds of all Yanshuei citizens. But the beautiful display also costs tens of millions of NT dollars and creates great piles of garbage left by the sightseers, not to mention the air pollution. Though it’s an activity that brings people together and is definitely worth seeing from a cultural perspective, how can we deal with its negative impact on the environment and the economy? In my opinion, we should do our best to pass on the spirit of our distinctive culture. However, we can protect our homeland as well if we find the right balance. After all, the most precious part of the ceremony is its spirit, not its form. I believe that with the help of the government and knowledgeable citizens, a reform of this traditional folk activity will flourish all the more. Do you know the story of your own home town? Usually, people tend to neglect the environment that they are most familiar with. After reading this introduction to Yanshuei, maybe you can find out more about the story of your own city. a
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May 2024
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