By Katelyn Chan Regarded as one of the most dangerous festivals in the world, the Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival is a must-see for any thrill seekers traveling to Taiwan. From the 13th to the 15th day of the lunar year, palanquins holding statues of the Chinese deity Guan Yu parade around the city of Yanshui, setting off fireworks and rocket platforms as they go. Meanwhile, festivalgoers wait eagerly in front of the rocket platforms, hoping to get hit by the flying projectiles. While there are many legends surrounding the origins of this unique festival, most point towards a Cholera epidemic that is said to have ravaged the Yanshui region during the late 19th century. Residents of the area prayed to Guan Yu, the Chinese god of war, asking him for help. As the story goes, residents then decided to parade through the streets of Yanshui during the Lantern Festival, setting off strings of fireworks along the way, either to accompany the deity or in the hopes of inviting him. The epidemic subsided shortly after, but the traditions it sparked have remained ever since. Participants of this festival kicked it up a notch after WWII, when they switched from strings of fireworks to bottle rockets. Since then, they have used ‘beehive’ rocket platforms, named for the way they shoot hundreds of rockets in all directions. As the festival grew in popularity, so did the number and size of the fireworks. Nowadays, the belief that getting hit by a firework will bring luck and prosperity, and the intrigue of such tradition, brings thousands of people to the usually quiet town of Yanshui. However, due to the unique activities of this festival and its rather remote location, it can be overwhelming for first-timers looking to join in. To remedy this, here is a step-by-step guide to the Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival, with everything from transportation to preparation. ALTStep 1: Accommodations Assuming you don’t live in Yanshui, you will need to find somewhere to stay for the duration of the festival. There are two main options for location – Yanshui itself or Tainan, the neighboring city. Tainan has more places to stay, with a wider price range. Additionally, the city has numerous other attractions to see and enjoy, and is highly suitable for longer trips. However, traveling between Tainan and Yanshui can get a little tricky, especially during the festival when buses operate on a different schedule and route. For this reason, I would recommend staying within Yanshui itself, if possible, even if it’s just for the night of the festival. This way, you have plenty of time to prepare yourself before the festival and don’t have to worry about leaving early to catch the bus and train required to get back to Tainan. Step 2: Getting to Yanshui If you are not staying in Yanshui, then you will need to navigate public transportation to get there. Unfortunately, due to its rather remote location, Ubers and taxis to and from Yanshui are limited. Luckily, getting there is relatively simple. From Tainan, simply head to the Tainan train station and catch a TRA (台鐵) train heading north. To find a train you can just use Google Maps, routing to Yanshui. The closest train stop to Yanshui is Xinying station, where you will need to transfer to a bus. Since the bus routes are changed for the festival, your best bet is to ask one of the workers there for help finding the right bus (Google Maps will not have the adapted routes/schedules). If you plan on participating in the festival, I recommend leaving from Tainan by 2pm, so that you have plenty of time to prepare once you get to Yanshui. Step 3: Festival Preparation Congratulations! You’ve made it to Yanshui! Now it’s time to get all geared up and ready for the festival. Make your way towards 鹽水武廟 (Yanshui Wumiao), this is the Guan Yu temple that the festival is centered around. As you walk, take note of the vendors selling protective equipment. Each vendor’s gear is slightly different and thus have different prices. Take your time picking out which one you want, and feel free to ask them for help. At the minimum, you will want a full-face helmet with some sort of fabric protector, a padded, flame-resistant jacket, thick pants, and close-toed shoes. Gloves are optional but highly recommended, especially if you plan on taking any pictures or videos during the event. Step 4: Joining the Festivities The festival start time and the route the procession takes can all be found online, so make sure you look for the most updated information. In 2024, the main festival started at 6:30 p.m. While you can certainly follow the procession from the start, it’s not entirely necessary. Instead, feel free to find a beehive platform, get a good spot, and wait for the procession to come to you. If you want to be right in the action, join the crowd and find a spot towards the middle of the platform; you don’t need to be right at the front, since the rockets will shoot outwards anyway. If you don’t want to be right in the crowd but still want to experience the festival, stand slightly off the path of the fireworks; on the sidewalks and by the buildings should be quieter. Now, just wait for the procession to reach you. Once they do, they will light joss paper as offerings and the fireworks for luck. When the palanquins start shaking, that’s your sign that the fireworks have been lit. Make sure your helmet visor is all the way down, turn your back to the platform, and start hopping. Participants jump/hop/stomp to prevent the fallen fireworks from igniting their clothing. As the fireworks go off around you, try to remain calm. It will be very hot and crowded so make sure to breathe and keep your arms up to prevent yourself from being crushed by the crowd. Step 5: Enjoy! The chaos is what the festival is all about, so just enjoy the thrill of being there. Each platform will take about 5-10 min to set off all of its rockets, which will then be followed by a brief aerial fireworks show. Once the platform is all done, follow the procession to the next platform and repeat the process again.
Step 6: Finale The final event of the night is the finale, which is held in a central location. In 2024, it was held at the Yanshui Junior High sports field. You can sit and relax on the field and enjoy watching fireworks going off in the distance. As the festival concludes, important figures will welcome visitors and give some brief speeches. This will be followed by the night’s final beehive fireworks, which will be shot into the crowd. As of 2024, this consisted of 4 trailers filled with rockets. Finally, festivalgoers will pack up and head back home, fireworks exploding above them, another year of luck successfully acquired. Step 7: Heading Home If you are unable to stay in Yanshui, you will need to navigate the public transportation back to Tainan. Be sure to check the last train to Tainan before you immerse yourself in the festival, so that you know what time you need to leave by. Additionally, be sure to account for the time you will need to walk to the bus station and the ride back to the station. From the Yanshui Junior High sports field, my group left by 10 p.m., and we ended up catching the 2nd to last train back. Thus, I recommend leaving no later than 10 p.m., and maybe even earlier to be on the safe side. Unfortunately, this means you may miss some or all of the finale. However, you should still be able to get your fill of fireworks and luck. The Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival offers a unique opportunity for visitors to immerse themselves in the culture and history of Taiwan. While certainly daunting, the festival has much to offer and is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience for travelers in Taiwan. a
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May 2024
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