By Sandra Bartelle
The Fanalei people are a fascinating group not only because of their long history, but also because of their deep-seated traditions. Of particular interest is an annual ceremony practiced by the Fanalei - dolphin hunting. This close-knit group kept many aspects of their cultural values and traditions, despite extensive influence from the West. Living on a small island on the outskirts of Port Adam, South Malaita, in the Solomon Islands, the Fanalei people live a life in harmony with nature, dependent on the ocean and the land’s natural resources for their livelihood. The people of Fanalei are commonly known as “Kirio People”. Kirio means dolphin in the local language which is a dialect spoken in the region where they originated. Roughly about 200 years ago they migrated from a part of a bigger island 200 miles up the coast. This can only be a rough estimate because before missionaries arrived in the region there is no written record of their movements; history is remembered by stories passed down through the generations. According to one story the further toward the south they moved the more dolphins they caught, and this is considered the main impetus for the migration. Today the people have settled on the island known as Fanalei Island, which was perfect due to their love of the sea. They are therefore given another alias, Saltwater People. According to legend the origin of dolphin hunting involves a Polynesian woman who came from Ontong Java Atoll which lies 500 km to the north, also a part of Malaita Province. She gave some of the villages magic stones that could be used to attract dolphins and taught two of the male villagers how to beat them under the water, creating a magical sound that puts dolphins in a trance and bringing them from afar. Two main reasons exist for dolphin hunting, one being the love for the taste of dolphin meat the tribe has acquired, whilst the other being the money that can be made from dolphin teeth. Dolphin teeth are a prized possession, not only to the Fanalei but also to most of the Province of Malaita. Dolphin teeth are shaped similarly to the teeth of many other mammals but are more exquisite with a finer quality. Girl’s jewellery is made from dolphin teeth, beaded with shells (beads) into necklaces, earrings and bracelets. The young men and their families collect teeth in the hope that one day they can use the teeth as bride price. Dolphin meat and teeth are used to form networks with neighbouring villages, and can be bartered for other goods. The dolphin tooth is worth more than just currency, they are a legacy that is passed down from one generation to the next. Dolphin hunting stopped around 50 years ago, it is unclear why, but it is suspected to be banned by Christianity because it was around this era that Christianity was introduced to the area. It was brought up again under the Masina Rule (a rebellion against English colonization) and now allowed by the Christian religion. When the Fanalei people arrived in the region, they brought with them their customs and their traditions. Although not always peacefully co-existing with neighbouring villages, who share a similar heritage and common language, over time they have intermarried and are now accepted as if they had always been there. Their different customs and traditions may be admired in the region as exotic, especially for their facial tattoos, a higher bride-price, and most of all for their love for the sea. All the women’s faces and some of the men’s faces are tattooed, and this is usually done at a very young age without choice to the receivers. To the Kirio people, facial tattoos are seen as beautiful and enchanting. Facial tattoos can be found in many cultures throughout the Pacific, and even some aboriginal tribes of Taiwan. The designs of the Fanalei designs usually depict a part of nature, like the sun on the cheekbones, or a simple bird outline beside the eyes. The most common way to make facial designs is through a scarring method, unlike the black ink used worldwide. Scarring is done by first painfully cutting a design into the skin with a knife or other similarly sharp object and then lime – limestone powder made from sea coral, used daily to eat with beetle-nut - is rubbed into the raw skin to give the skin a scar. This is usually done to children of a very young age, so that the pain is not part of one’s memory. Bride price is a term used in everyday language in the Solomon Islands more commonly known as a Malaitan custom, always heard in advice to a love struck boy as “ Be careful, she’s Malaitan, it’ll cost you your arm”. With the Lau people from whom the Fanalei people originate bride price takes on a wholly different meaning, with one bride costing the equivalent of the price of a small house. There are different types of shell money for different regions in Malaita; Tafuli’ae is the most common currency. For a Fanalei bride, the traditional shell money “Tafuli’ae” is skillfully decorated with dolphin teeth. With Dolphin teeth being the desired bride price asked by the Fanalei people, bride price would likely die away if dolphin hunting were ever banned to them. In Malaita, there are five known villages that still continue the practice of dolphin hunting. Fanalei is the only village that still continues with this religious practice of catching up to 80 dolphins yearly. Hunting begins early in the morning before daybreak. All men who are physically capable would participate in the hunt. Fanalei men paddle their dug-out canoes out into sea and beat the “magical” stones under the sea to attract the dolphins. They then surround the dolphins and peacefully lead them back to shore, where the women and children wait in the village to help slaughter the dolphins and prepare the dolphins for drying, then the dolphins are burnt on hot stones and ready to be eaten. Though the killing may be considered brutal to outsiders, it is also fascinating how pods of dolphins are brought to the shore with skillful teamwork techniques, causing minimum fear to the dolphins. Today with the terrors of global warming, the people of Fanalei have more to worry about than how much fish one should catch for dinner. Since the early 2000’s, the sea has been slowly rising to the point where most of the villagers have been relocated inland, thus, there are few houses and one church left on the nearly deserted island. Universally, dolphins have played an important role in human culture and are loved as an animal symbolizing peace and bringing joy to those who have the opportunity of seeing one, whether in captivity or in the wild. Some species are seriously endangered and facing extinction. But to the people of Fanalei, dolphin hunting is a way of life, and is a cultural uniqueness that demands respect. a
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May 2024
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